Thursday, March 29, 2012

Trains, Boats and Tuk Tuks


The gander from the top floor (15 stories) not at all disappointing
Wanting to get my bearings around Bangkok's colossal network of acreage, I decided to throw myself in the deep end - not literary! those waterways are dirty enough to embalm a cat! 

My 3rd morning found me keeping up with my co-worker down the busy street to catch an over crowded bus to an even more over crowded train to cut across the city to the language school he was finishing up at and I would be begin starting in a few days time. Our boss calls this 'Orientation'. 

Registration for Thai classes all done and dusted and Pieter in his final exam, by 8:30am I'm left to my own devices in a city far away, in a section of town I can't pronounce, in a heat I've not acclimatised too, with no idea which way is north and having a hard time figuring out the money. Perfect timing for sightseeing, might as well just get on with it.
First stop an overview - I snuck up to the topmost floor to take a peek.
L: Union Language School, where I will wax eloquent the Thai tongue
M: City scape with school treed compound and sky train in foreground and water canal in the distance
R: A close up of the water canal and city, they crisscross the city

Today I decided to play on as much of the transportation system Bangkok could offer me.

 Welcome to my new everyday life

This is bus # 71 I catch in the morning to the train station. In a city of 12 million people you'd think they'd put in double seats, but no, it's good to stand. The driver likes to travel about 80kms/hr, stop suddenly and impatient to leave and often is at least 30kms/hr before the passenger has fully alighted on/off the bus. Oh, and he likes to travel with the doors open! A bus driver often stops at random places and calls to a seller of flowers to add to his collection at the front of the bus, while at the lights he will pay homage to Buddha or the King, I'm not sure which or both. Then light up a smoke if he so inclined.
This is the chap who collects your money, he roams the bus speaking Thai only and holds a metal cylinder full of coins and tickets to give out. He points to seats or the back of the bus and often can be seen calling to the people on the street while stopped (for the seconds necessary to allow more people on or off). Air conditioning on this bus was the open windows and maybe an overhead fan. A ride on this will set you back 6.5BTH or $0.25cNZ
Pretty snazzy view. This bus takes me the 2.3km to the train station. I've taken to walking it in the mornings, there is only so much over crowing one can handle. This bus wasn't very crowded.
This is a typical morning or afternoon train ride on the BTS: Bangkok Mass Transit System
This morning wasn't that bad, but usually at 7am expect to have between 4-6 bodies pressed against you. Personal space? Oh that's whats going on between your ears not the bubble about your body. This is the sky train (mono-rail) with proper air-con. My train takes about 15min to arrive to school. Riding this baby cost me a month pass for 840BTH (40 rides) $33.15NZ. It takes 2 rides off you at a time, so on a given day going to and from school it loves eating 4 rides equaling to 84BTH a day $3.31NZ
Pulling out my trusty tourist map and throwing caution to the wind I boarded the next available train. I now rode in another direction to further places unpronounceable. It was loads of fun, viewing the city from a giants perceptive in the skytrain. Taking mental notes of the parks, shopping centers and temples for later perusal we soon crossed a bridge and a whim took me to get off and see about a boat traveling upriver. 
It seemed every other foreigner visiting the city thought just like me and now I was being pressed into a line and being pressured to by a 100BTH/$4NZ all day pass. But I only wanted to go one way and I was disappointed it wasn't one of those fast zippy express boats I was looking for. I had my wits about me to ask what the cost of a one way trip and was told 30BTH/$1.20NZ so I took that. It was a great tour to get an overview and something I'll return to should family and friends visit.
The Chao Phraya River cruse with all it's sights which I'll go back to another day, great to see them in 'real life'
The one way boat ride was really long and enjoyable, even though the water was not inviting, it was fantastic to be on the water nonetheless.

Can you guess what my next ride was? rottuktuk - in phassaathay (Thai language) I've since learned. This is where I started really enjoying  the adventure. But in fact I was totally sucked into a tourist scam which I got the better end off. I'll try and make it brief... I wanted to make my way to the express boat on a canal and as I was reading my map - totally tourist - I, with a few other tourists, was 'helped' to understand the map. I was told that the express boat doesn't operate till 2pm, and as it was now 12noon I was offered a TukTuk ride for only 10BTH/NZ$0.40. That appealed to me, but I also caught something about visiting a tailors and gem shop along the way. It was totally missed on me that this was a set up. So I happily boarded my ride, as you can see.

Even had a bit of excitement when a car cut us off and this poor bloke went straight into the back of us - well me actually. Man the tuktuks are sturdy wee things. The offending car had his license number taken down as he sped off and this army guy came on over to assist, it was all over in a few minutes with just a few scraps on both bike and person. Wow my first accident in Thailand.

So I was dropped off at before mentioned tailors, then gem shop and went in and enjoyed 5 min at both to appease my driver - "Oh you didn't buy anything." he said, "no I wasn't interested in spending" says I, then happily continued enjoying the sights, not at all bothered we had to stop, I also was given a free cold water in the gem shop where dozens of other sucked-in tourists were sending big. We drove round for an hour and he was about to take me to some other place "I must see" when I said, "no, it's OK thanks, I'll get off now" as I thought I'd walk round a bit till the boats started working. I thought it strange his countenance changed as soon as I said this but he stopped where I wanted to go and before I could pay him he was off! Weird. I turned about and found that the express boats fast at work, then it dawned on me what had happened - totally given a 'line'. I was pretty thrilled I got the better end of the stick and enjoyed an hour touring round at no cost and had a refreshing cup of water to boot!

Now my next ride awaited me immediately so I boarded and enjoyed a thrill ride down the canal, or chong (ch pronounced as 'ka'). When you board, you board with HASTE, and I mean HASTE! Same with docking... phew this country make you work to get on board anything! This ride took me back to where I began in the journey, a 10/15min ride for 10BTH.
A little eating place beside the canal, you can see the dock on the opposite side
Inside the boat - hang on, as he motors. The blue tarp is hoisted up as passengers tend to get water sprayed, not an ideal desire, pretty grimy water.
The 'conductors' on held on and walked round the side of the boat gathering money, at least they were waring helmets

Tis myself thoroughly enjoying the ride
Docked and about to take off at high speed
 
Sky train knot - great way to travel
My ride home
The express boat crisscrosses all over the city and it's amazing to get off that and then onto this (skytrain) in the matter of a few minutes.

Once at my homeward-bound stop I caught a motorcycle taxi. I couldn't take photos as I was busy trying not to get my knees swiped against a bus while hanging on... they weave... what an adventure!

So that covers most of what I see on any given day while living in Bangkok, lots of fun and variety.

My first day of sight seeing was satisfactory and I have a better mental image of direction and where I was meant to be. The adventure continues as I go through my 'Orientation' and will only stop when I leave this country, so I'm told.

So far enjoying the ride(s)  ;o)

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Apartment at the end of Soi 32

My street sign - Pridi Banomyong is my 'suburb'
At the end of a narrow lane, that kinda looks like an ally-way, sits my apartment block. It's rather new and clean compared to some of the options round about. Mind you, I've been both well kept and disarray sitting side-by-side. The advertising flier for my building states: Good location, quiet environment (true, can't hear the main road), 150m to main road, comfortable room, big bathroom, energy efficient, (air con), bed, cupboard, dressing table, high speed internet and 24hr security officer, along with CCTV entrance-key card system - nobody's getting into this baby!
my apartment circled in red
I've been given a room on the second floor, and I must say I'm pretty pleased I don't need to climb to the 4th like my work colleague, there are plenty of stairs to climb in Bangkok let alone having to do so just to get to ones room.

My little haven is owed my a church member and gifted to me for the duration of my stay rent free. In turn I pay for the monthly utilities of net, water and electricity. I've since learned that the rent on such a place starts at 3900B/NZ $155 a month. I've no idea if this is indicative of other rents here about, I assume, but you know where that led me in my last post.

my room in all it's glory, a great size for me, but I've seen whole families living in this space!
my bed is slightly better than sleeping on the floor, with practically no 'give' in it.




I arrived to my apartment with it set up for living in. The furniture comes with the room, but the rest were gifted to me, giving me such a blessing. The theme seems to be pink, so pink sheet, cases, blanket, towels and rubbish bin. The other farang's (foreigners) I'm working with are Americans and seem to be tickled with my kiwi naming of things. Its all in good nature and I enjoy it also. I've found that the only soft thing about my bed, is me in it! But I sleep, and that's the most important thing.
I was also given other items useful for living like a fan, ironing board and iron, plates, cutlery, some food and water, toilet paper, broom, washing basket, a folding table and a small computer desk and chair (not pictured) given to me a week after I arrived. Having all my needs meet, I don't want for much else - in my heart I'd love a recliner, but it doesn't seem to be something people have here... lol... ok needs meet, with a wishful hope on the side. O I'm such a westerner. Though, I am content and very grateful with what I have.

You'll notice there is no kitchen here, neither is there a communal one in the building, you see everything is on the street. It's the communities dinning room and food is cheap. I don't even have a fridge. But this doesn't concern me. I'll write about the food in another post, as it's a story all on it's own.
my wardrobe and bathroom

It was a good feeling to unpack after a few months living out of my travel bag, as you can see it doesn't take up much space. My bathroom is great, everything all in one. The toilet amuses me. There is a little hose attachment to the right of the bowl. Upon 'finishing' you're to use it to wash/squirt (whatever) yourself then dab dry with paper, then put said paper into the rubbish bin next the the loo. Hmmm, takes some getting used to, but everything is in working order with no mishaps. Just so you know :)

The water is cold, which is great, as it's hot all the time. But sometimes first thing in the morning you kinda wish for a little heat as it takes your breath away - weird. Mind you if you return for a midday shower you'll most likely find it hot, when you actually wish it to be cold. The sun warms up everything... sigh. Such is life. Once I realised I had hot water, I did my dishes, it's weird doing them in cold water.

Oh - the light switches are the opposite from home. Down is off, up is on.
This is the cool view form my balcony window - I love the Mosque
From my balcony I get this awesome view of other homes down the Soi and the Mosque that fronts onto the main road. At night the two towers light up with green lights. The absolute highlight living here is the call to prayer at 5:15 every morning. I'm not often home in the afternoon to hear it, but it's so soothing. I've called my family at that time so they can hear it also.

The balcony is where everyone dries their clothes, it's great to have them done over night. I've done one wash in my first week, the building has 3 washing machines at our disposal for small (20B/NZ$.80), med (30B/NZ$1.18), and large (40B/NZ$1.58) washes.


For now this is my home away from home and I thank God each day for the privilege of having this space to make and call my own. I'm enjoying my interaction with both the day time and night time guards. They only speak Thai and we chat away not knowing what the other is saying. The night guard and his wife are funny, she practices her English on me and I draw pictures to try and talk to her... until I can practice Thai on her, and he tries to teach me Thai... making friends is fun.

First Impressions

It surprised me how I found myself at leisure while traveling, even though I covered some fear few mileage before actually arriving in Thailand. I didn't have anywhere to be so I allowed others to go before me and took my time, it worked wonders for my attitude and overall enjoyment of the trip. Here's a few highlights of the 2 weeks leaving NZ.
Piha & Maraetai Beaches in Auckland with my folks and a bit of Lama loving
Hunua Falls Reserve Auckland - truly a place to visit
My farewell at 3am - still smiling. Taking with me my flat-traveler 'Flat Nikki' and 'Grad Bear'

Austraila - Gold Coast, Surfers Paradise visiting my brother, Canberra, the nations capital with 'Flat Nikki' and some soggy days in Young with friends and wild kangaroos! A highlight for sure. 


Bangkok, Thailand

The inflight entertainment showing where we are and how long till we get there
Customs at Bangkok is nothing like NZ or OZ, I wasn't checked or searched, there was no x-ray machine or random drug scan - but there was a LONG line and a tired customs officer by the time I faced him, and he was frustrated with me - why? I'd forgot to fill in the 2nd form I was given on the plane. Could I do it where I stood? No, as I'd left it on the plane didn't I! NOTE to anyone - if you're given a form to fill out and you're not sure if you need to do it all - DO IT ALL, ALL THE TIME, FILL THE WHOLE LOT OUT, don't know why I thought I didn't need that part, but there you go, and here I was standing at midnight facing a grumpy customs officer who was telling me "No - you go!" he wanted me to return to the back of the line and find another form - I think. His English was limited to "No - you go!". I had a talk with God - 'tell me what to do, I'm too tired to care' - So I smiled and said "I'm sorry, I don't understand". In exasperation he gave me a form for me to fill in there and then (3 lines of info). Handing it back with a smile and thank you he stamped my passport and I was in the country.

Welcome to Thailand! land of smiles... and grumpy customs officers at midnight

Though, he got one over me, I had a 3 month visa and he only gave me 31 days.... Let that be a lesson to me...sigh...It's all in the hands of God and the the visa fellow at work now.

You know how it feels to get into a cold bath or any kind of cold water? It seems to suck the very life out of you as you take the plunge, or gingerly edge your way deeper and deeper allowing the pain to be drawn out as you're too sissy to take that plunge - but it's like needles nonetheless? Well it works the same backwards - coming from a nicely air-conditioned airport at midnight into 30 degree heat gives you that same feeling.... you suck it in as if the very breath has left you - it's SO HOT. Welcome to Bangkok... did I say that already?

They drive on the right side of the road, according to NZ and OZ driving - which is on the left. I was grateful for a little familiarity. I must admit I was somewhat disappointed i didn't see the 12000000 residents of Bangkok parading the streets at that hour of the night, it was positively quiet, with a handful of cars at best on the motorway heading to wherever we were going. We? yes, my new boss/pastor Doug collected me, bless him. We'd met via Skype over the past few months so it was good to have a 45min catch up as he drove me to my own apartment in... I don't even know my district, but he got me there nonetheless.

I'd had a friend concerned that I'd be going into a dangerous area - I laughed and said Bangkok, not Beirut! The country is majority Buddhist and there are some Muslim issues in the south, I'll be fine as I'm well away, I said with confidence. As we came near to our destination (100meters or so) Doug slowed the car and causally said "O, see that phone box just there. on the right?", "yeah" says I. "That's where the bomb went off two weeks ago, but don't be alarmed" "Whoa, what?!". 
A chap had been heading over to the Israeli embassy to cause strife, when he accidentally tripped the bomb he had, blowing up the phone booth (windows at least) and it took his legs also, poor bloke. Everything backfired. I'm being told this as we pull into my Soi (Soy = lane/street) right next to a huge Mosque. So eating my words... never assume.. you only make an ass (out of) -u- (and) me. But on a side note... I LOVE waking each morning to the call to prayer from my lovely neighbours. And it was an isolated event.

Welcome to Bangkok - think we covered that one.